Manufacturer: Amano
Cocoa Content: 70%
Location: Madagascar
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+

Up for review today is the Amano Madagascar 70% dark chocolate bar. The Madagascar, like many Madagascan dark chocolates, is fairly light in color for a 70% chocolate. It is light mahogany in color with a reddish-orange hue.

On the palate there is a rich espresso-chocolate roasted note up front. Acidity pops out vibrantly with lemon peel citrus flavor and some tart berry notes. In the background there are hints at earthiness and green bell pepper. Some herbaceousness combines with the citrus to hint at a bit of lemongrass. Chewing the Amano Madagascar opens up a big lemonade note along with blackberries and a faint woodiness. The chocolate melts to a smooth consistency, but the bar itself feels rather course under the tongue as the chocolate melts. The finish has equal portions of lemonade and espresso.

The Amano Madagascar is one of the best tasting chocolates I've had in quite some time. The citrus takes the lead with the roast following right after and there is a wealth of complex undertones like earth and fresh herbs to back them up. I love the flavor combination of lemonade and espresso, and all the supporting flavors marry perfectly. That's why it's such a shame that the texture was so flawed on this chocolate bar. If Amano gets the texture issues worked out on this one, then their Madagascar could very well stand up with the best of the best.

Manufacturer: Gillham & Grand (Hallmark private label)
Cocoa Content: 70%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: D

Today's tasting is a 70% dark chocolate bar from Gillham & Grand. Gillham & Grand is a private label who produces chocolate for Hallmark. The bar is ebony in color with some red. Opening the package releases a rather disappointing aroma that reminds me of cheap hollow chocolate Santas/Easter Bunnies.

At first taste there is an immediate strong flavor of raspberry preserves. I had to double-check the package to make sure I hadn't inadvertently gotten a flavored chocolate. I'm assuming that these bars are either produced on the same machine as the raspberry-flavored bars or have been stored in mixed cases with them for an extended period of time. Underneath the berries, sweet notes of caramel and coconut are here as well as mocha and peanuts. Chewing the Gillham & Grand bar lead to more raspberry preserves along with notes of vanilla and coconut. The mouthfeel is waxy and slightly gritty. The finish has lingering mocha notes as the raspberry fades.

It is obvious that the Gillham and Grand bar I tasted has met some subpar manufacturing and storage conditions. Even for a private label chocolate, this bar fails to meet even minimal expectations (see Walmart's Hageland line for examples of the right way to do private label chocolate). If you're in a Hallmark store and you're having a chocolate craving, do yourself a favor and find something other than this.

Manufacturer: Ghirardelli
Cocoa Content: 72%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+

Up for review today is the Twilight Delight. This dark chocolate weighs in at 72% cocoa and occupies the middle of Ghirardelli's Intense Dark line based on cocoa content. The Twilight Delight is deep brown in color with reddish-orange highlights.

The Twilight Delight has a rich chocolate note up front. Acidity slowly builds to a moderate level with notes of orange peel and red raspberries. There is a mild bitter kick of black coffee. Roasted walnuts and almonds are here as well as a faint earthy note in the background. The Twilight Delight melts smooth and creamy on the tongue. Chewing the chocolate brings forward notes of vanilla, walnuts and a faint earthiness. The finish is straight-ahead semisweet chocolate with lingering espresso bitterness and a hint of lemonade.

While it does little to set itself apart from the crowd, the Twilight Delight is a very good dark chocolate bar. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for in rich chocolate flavor. I'd love to see Ghirardelli branch out into some single-source chocolates, because this bar shows their potential for producing top-notch chocolate.

Manufacturer: Amano
Cocoa Content: 70%
Location: Ecuador
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+

Manufacturer: Hägeland
Cocoa Content: 64%
Location: Peru
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B-

Up for tasting today is the Hägeland Peru, a 64% dark chocolate bar. The bar is deep brown in color with a faint orange undertone. The nose is rather straightforward, calling to mind semi-sweet chocolate chips.

On the palate, there is a dominant roasted chocolate flavor along with nuttiness (i.e., roasted almonds) up front. There is just a touch of acidity in the background here. This leads to a citrus note of orange peel. The Hageland Peru has a smooth, creamy and slightly thick mouthfeel. Chewing the bar brings out notes of mint, vanilla and toffee. The finish has trailing roasted nuts with some coffee as well as a strong caramel note.

The Hägeland Peru is a decent chocolate, but the flavor is pretty one-dimensional with a strong roast flavor. This is definitely a bar calling for a higher cocoa percentage. There is definite potential here. Again, for a made-for-Walmart chocolate, this is a pretty nice surprise.

Manufacturer: Lake Champlain Chocolates
Cocoa Content: 75%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+

On the tasting block today is another chocolate from Lake Champlain's Select Origin line - the Tanzania 75% dark chocolate. The chocolate bar is deep mahogany brown in color with some ruby undertones. The nose detects cocoa and marshmallow notes.

On the palate a roast chocolate character jumps out up front. There is a rich cocoa bitter note that hints at black licorice. A caramel note is present as well. The acidity is rather slow to build as the thick bar slowly melts, but it eventually reaches a moderate level. Fruit notes of raspberry, pomegranate and currant eventually make their presence known. Chewing the Lake Champlain Tanzania bar brings forward strawberry, vanilla and a fleeting woodsy note. The chocolate is thick and creamy as it melts on the tongue. It is almost completely smooth, but it has just the finest grit. The finish has sweetened coffee and strawberries as it fades.

The Lake Champlain Tanzania 75% dark chocolate bar is tasty and well balanced. I did find this bar to be a little lacking in complexity, especially compared to their fantastic Sao Thome, but overall this is a great snacking dark chocolate.

Manufacturer: Amano
Cocoa Content: 70%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+

Today's tasting is the Amano Ocumare, a 70% dark chocolate bar made with cacao from the Ocumare Valley in Venezuela. The Ocumare bar is mahogany in color with a reddish-purple tint. The palate finds roasted chocolate notes up front along with some smokiness and a pleasant bitter kick. The acidity builds, opening up flavors of blackberry, blueberry and plum. Spice notes of black pepper, bell pepper and mint sit in the background with some earth and floral notes.

Chewing the Ocumare brings forward mint, vanilla, earth and a cedary wood note. The mouthfeel is very smooth and creamy, leaving a slight cooling sensation on the tongue. The finish has lingering bitter and roast flavors over juicy acid/fruit notes.

The Ocumare is a very good showing from Amano. This is a complex, well-balanced dark chocolate. The only fault I find is that no one feature stands out. The Ocumare is almost too balanced and complex for its own good. And as far as chocolate goes, that's not such a bad problem to have.