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Welcome to The Dark Chocolate Blog!
This site is dedicated to tasting notes and reviews of premium dark chocolate. The Dark Chocolate Blog is a spinoff of Critical Tastings, and will be the new home of the chocolate reviews and tasting notes that were formerly featured there. Please poke around, check out some reviews and leave some comments.
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 1:30 PM | | 0 Comments
Scharffen Berger Ben Tre 72% Dark Chocolate
Manufacturer: Scharffen Berger
Cocoa Content: 72%
Location: Vietnam
Manufacturer Website
Rating: A
Up for review today is a single source dark chocolate bar from Scharffen Berger, the Ben Tre. This is a 72% bar made with cacao from Vietnam. The bar is a deep brown with lots of red and purple.
At first taste the palate is immediately hit with an intense, rich chocolate flavor. There are some spice notes here, with cinnamon and a touch of black pepper. This bar has a very lively, almost juicy, acidity which brings out flavors of green banana, pineapple, strawberries and citrus. Chewing the Ben Tre brings forward vanilla, fresh strawberries and cinnamon. The chocolate melts to a smooth, creamy consistency with a bit of a cooling sensation. The finish has a squirt of lemon with a dash of cinnamon. At the very tail end, there is a hint of herbal bitterness.
When I took my first taste of the Ben Tre, I literally said "Wow" out loud. This bar has an insanely good, rich chocolate flavor and a great, vibrant acidity. I really want to give this bar an A+ rating based on taste alone, but there are a few minor issues separating this bar from perfection. First, the acidity is so dominant that some subtle undertones are a bit muted. Secondly, there is a faint off note of herbal bitterness at the tail end. Despite these quibbling issues, the folks at Hershey have nailed it with the Scharffen Berger Ben Tre. You owe it to yourself to try this dark chocolate bar ASAP.
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 11:30 AM | Labels: Dark Chocolate, Scharffen Berger, Vietnam | 0 Comments
Pacari Manabi 65% Dark Chocolate
Manufacturer: Pacari
Cocoa Content: 65%
Location: Ecuador
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B
Today's tasting is the Manabi 65% dark chocolate bar from Pacari. Pacari produces single-source organic chocolates bean-to-bar exclusively from Ecuador. Manabi is located in southwestern coastal Ecuador, and the beans used in this bar are from that region. The bar itself is a ruddy brown color.
The Manabi hits the palate with roast coffee and hot cocoa notes. Floral and herbal flavors are notable as well. The acidity level starts off rather mild, but then slowly builds to a rather lively level with notes of ripe strawberries and raspberries. Undertones of black pepper are detectable as well. Chewing the Manabi brings forward notes of currants and a faint cashew nuttiness. The texture of the Manabi bar is slightly coarse with some grittiness. The finish has green bananas, floral notes, hot cocoa and some spice. There is also a faint herbal bitterness.
I have some mixed feelings about the Manabi dark chocolate. I really like how the flavor develops over time. There is an herbal bitter note that seems a bit off to me, and there are definitely some construction issues. Still, I like what I see so far in this bar from Pacari. I'm looking forward to trying some of their other dark chocolates.
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 11:30 AM | Labels: Dark Chocolate, Ecuador, Pacari | 0 Comments
Amano Madagascar 70% Dark Chocolate
Manufacturer: Amano
Cocoa Content: 70%
Location: Madagascar
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+
Up for review today is the Amano Madagascar 70% dark chocolate bar. The Madagascar, like many Madagascan dark chocolates, is fairly light in color for a 70% chocolate. It is light mahogany in color with a reddish-orange hue.
On the palate there is a rich espresso-chocolate roasted note up front. Acidity pops out vibrantly with lemon peel citrus flavor and some tart berry notes. In the background there are hints at earthiness and green bell pepper. Some herbaceousness combines with the citrus to hint at a bit of lemongrass. Chewing the Amano Madagascar opens up a big lemonade note along with blackberries and a faint woodiness. The chocolate melts to a smooth consistency, but the bar itself feels rather course under the tongue as the chocolate melts. The finish has equal portions of lemonade and espresso.
The Amano Madagascar is one of the best tasting chocolates I've had in quite some time. The citrus takes the lead with the roast following right after and there is a wealth of complex undertones like earth and fresh herbs to back them up. I love the flavor combination of lemonade and espresso, and all the supporting flavors marry perfectly. That's why it's such a shame that the texture was so flawed on this chocolate bar. If Amano gets the texture issues worked out on this one, then their Madagascar could very well stand up with the best of the best.
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 11:30 AM | Labels: Amano, Dark Chocolate, Madagascar | 0 Comments
Gillham & Grand 70% Dark Chocolate
Manufacturer: Gillham & Grand (Hallmark private label)
Cocoa Content: 70%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: D
Today's tasting is a 70% dark chocolate bar from Gillham & Grand. Gillham & Grand is a private label who produces chocolate for Hallmark. The bar is ebony in color with some red. Opening the package releases a rather disappointing aroma that reminds me of cheap hollow chocolate Santas/Easter Bunnies.
At first taste there is an immediate strong flavor of raspberry preserves. I had to double-check the package to make sure I hadn't inadvertently gotten a flavored chocolate. I'm assuming that these bars are either produced on the same machine as the raspberry-flavored bars or have been stored in mixed cases with them for an extended period of time. Underneath the berries, sweet notes of caramel and coconut are here as well as mocha and peanuts. Chewing the Gillham & Grand bar lead to more raspberry preserves along with notes of vanilla and coconut. The mouthfeel is waxy and slightly gritty. The finish has lingering mocha notes as the raspberry fades.
It is obvious that the Gillham and Grand bar I tasted has met some subpar manufacturing and storage conditions. Even for a private label chocolate, this bar fails to meet even minimal expectations (see Walmart's Hageland line for examples of the right way to do private label chocolate). If you're in a Hallmark store and you're having a chocolate craving, do yourself a favor and find something other than this.
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 11:30 AM | Labels: Dark Chocolate, Gillham and Grand | 0 Comments
Ghirardelli Intense Dark Twilight Delight 72% Cacao
Manufacturer: Ghirardelli
Cocoa Content: 72%
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+
Up for review today is the Twilight Delight. This dark chocolate weighs in at 72% cocoa and occupies the middle of Ghirardelli's Intense Dark line based on cocoa content. The Twilight Delight is deep brown in color with reddish-orange highlights.
The Twilight Delight has a rich chocolate note up front. Acidity slowly builds to a moderate level with notes of orange peel and red raspberries. There is a mild bitter kick of black coffee. Roasted walnuts and almonds are here as well as a faint earthy note in the background. The Twilight Delight melts smooth and creamy on the tongue. Chewing the chocolate brings forward notes of vanilla, walnuts and a faint earthiness. The finish is straight-ahead semisweet chocolate with lingering espresso bitterness and a hint of lemonade.
While it does little to set itself apart from the crowd, the Twilight Delight is a very good dark chocolate bar. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for in rich chocolate flavor. I'd love to see Ghirardelli branch out into some single-source chocolates, because this bar shows their potential for producing top-notch chocolate.
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 11:30 AM | Labels: Dark Chocolate, Ghirardelli | 0 Comments
Amano Guayas 70% Dark Chocolate
Manufacturer: Amano
Cocoa Content: 70%
Location: Ecuador
Manufacturer Website
Rating: B+
Posted by Eric Branchaud at 11:30 AM | Labels: Amano, Dark Chocolate, Ecuador | 0 Comments